Pemba Dorje Sherpa (speed)

Guinness Book Record Holder/18 Times Everest Summiteer


Pemba Dorje Sherpa (Speed) is world renowned climber who climbed Mount Everest 18 times till 2018 and he is currently holding the ‘fastest person to climb Mount Everest’. Pemba climbed Mount Everest in 8 hours 10 minutes on May 21, 2004. Pemba holds four other world records in mountaineering and recognized and certified by Guinness Book of world records.

Pemba Dorjee Sherpa nicknamed as “SPEED” was born in 19th April 1977 in Beding, a tiny Sherpa village in the Dolakha. Following his father’s death, Pemba had to take up the responsibilities of his family. He dropped out of school and earned money working as a porter for mountaineering groups. His climbing career began in 1997, and he worked as a kitchen boy and porter for various groups but was not given the opportunity to reach the summit until 2003.
Perhaps one of the most critical skills a mountaineer must learn is to e exercise good judgment and makes rapid decision on the mountain. These are skill that takes years of accumulated climbing experience and repeated practice in challenging conditions on a variety of mountains, route, and condition. In addition to these learned skill, a few people also develop an extreme sensitivity to the physical environment and a heightened ability to accurately evaluate his or her own physical and mental readiness as well as that of those they are guiding.  They are also able to assess weather, terrain on snow conditions to identify and avoid dangerous situation such as avalanches and hidden crevasses. Practiced judgment involves knowing when it is safe to keep climbing and when it is necessary to turn back, even if it means giving up the summit.

Pemba has guided many climbers on numerous expeditions. He has led successful expeditions to both the north and south side of Mount Everest, has made winter ascents of technical mountains like Ama Dablam, and has led groups up numerous 8000 meter peaks in the Himalayas including Shishapangma, Manaslu, Makalu and Lhotse.  His clients have included such diverse groups as 75 year old Nepalese man, the first all women Nepalese team, and groups from all parts of the worked with varied climbing abilities and experience.  The fact that Pemba has climbed so many mountains and safely guided so many different clients is testament to his physical prowess as a mountaineer and his ability to exercise good judgment in the most demanding extreme conditions.

Pemba’s personal climbing achievements on Mount Everest are a rare achievement. Apart from his record holding feats, he has successfully scaled Everest a total of 18 times with numerous other 8000 ers.  These records speak to his strength and resilience as a high altitude mountaineers.  Through these achievements, which are indeed impressive, he has developed the knowledge, skill and confidence to lead others safely towards Everest and other high peaks of the Himalayas.

Pemba is an example of one of the few guides who possesses unrivaled technique, excellent judgment, self-discipline, superlative physical condition and experience in the Himalaya, It is this combination of attributes that is rare and incredibly valuable to climbers who enjoy climbing but who are nor among the few who have the capability not only to climb, but also to lead in these challenging conditions.

Apart from his mountaineering feats, Pemba’s achievements include his effort to draw attention to the impact of climate change on the Himalayas. His efforts in the field of environment have been recognized by various NGOs such as Friends of the Himalayas, The American Himalayan foundation, 360, Friend of Earth and many more.


Pemba’s World Records:

Year Peak Remarks Recognized By
2007 Spring Mount Everest Climbed 3 times within 10 days Guinness Book of World Records
2004 Spring Mount Everest Climbed 2 times within 5 days Guinness Book of World Records
21th May, 2004 Mount Everest Climbed in 8 hours 10 minutes Guinness Book of World Records
23rd May, 2003 Mount Everest Climbed in 12 hours 45 minutes Guinness Book of World Records


Pemba’s Endorsements:

  • GOODWILL AMBASSDOR of Nepal Tourism Year 2011 nominated by Nepal Government (Nepal Tourism Board).
  • GOODWILL AMBASSDOR (2009) nominated by
  • GOODWILL BRAND AMBASSDOR (since 2004) nominated by Friends of the Earth International.


Certificates & Awards

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